Leaf Pulling A Grape Vine
Leaf pulling or the removal of leaves is one of the summer manipulations you simply cannot just ignore, if you are serious about growing good quality grapes.
Why leaf pulling?
Not only will leaf pulling improve the coverage and penetration of your spray applications, but it will also improve sunlight penetration and airflow into the vine, which on the other hand makes your grape vines less susceptible to diseases. As the UV-rays and air penetrates the vines, it will create less ideal conditions for the inoculation and spread of fungal diseases. Remember for fungus diseases to spread, a hot humid climate is needed.
The removal of leaves will allow the vines to dry off much quicker after rain or heavy dew and thus will make the vines less susceptible to the spread of fungus diseases.
Many grape growers ask me why their vines don’t have any grapes and the first question I ask them is how they do summer manipulations. In 90% of the cases, they don’t do leaf pulling. I will almost go as far as to say that, leaf pulling is just as important as proper pruning techniques! I know, this is a bold statement, but without proper sunlight penetration, the chances are good that your vines will only have shoots and leaves and no grapes!
When to do leaf pulling?
Leaf pulling is done just after flowering, when fruit set is complete so you won’t disturb the pollination process. In the southern hemisphere, it is round about middle to end November and in the northern hemisphere in May (off course this may vary from climate to climate).
If you grow table grapes or dessert grapes, then leaf pulling will improve the overall cosmetic quality of the grapes, as it will minimize the bruising of the grape skins from leaves scratching it’s surface. For wine and table grapes, it will improve the overall grape and wine quality, as the vines are using the nutrients available more efficiently.
Tests done with a light sensitivity meter shows that the first layer of leaves on the grape vine canopy, get the most sunlight and will use the sunlight to produce more than 90% of the carbohydrates inside a vine. They are the most efficient leaves on the canopy, which is obvious as it gets the most exposure.
The second layer of leaves inside the canopy, only gets about 7 – 10 % of the sunlight and will contribute only that percentage to overall carbohydrates. The third layer only receive about 3% of the sunlight.
How to do leaf pulling?
Now, the following is important; your grape vine needs leaves to produce carbohydrates, but on the other hand use up nutrients for normal assimilation processes. Therefore, some leaves are using energy they produce to create more energy but some are only using energy and do not produce enough energy themselves. These are the leaves that will make less energy available for grape development and they need to be minimized at all cost.
The leaves at the base of each shoot (leaves 1 to 3, counting from the spur or cane) are the ones that are not contributing to improve grape quality. By only removing those leaves, you will improve the sunlight penetration into the base of the canopy and will also improve the airflow by up to 40%! Leaves touching the structure or cordon of the vine and those touching grapes clusters needs be removed.
Don’t forget leave pulling, I know it’s a time consuming job, but you will reap the rewards in the end.
Take care..
Danie
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Tagged with: how to grow grapes
Filed under: growing grapes • how to grow grapes
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Hi danie,
I know this method will help me a lot, please keep sending tips
about grapes vine.
Thank you and more power.
totie
Danie this is a practice i always certainly do as here in East Gippsland Vic Australia we do have probs with powdery mildew. Hopefully not this season..So i always do this in my vineyard as to minimise if the weather goes crazy on us.. it can be very unpredictable.. i dont generally leaf pluck straight after flowering but more so when the fruit has set [3-4 wks later]So this for my vineyard would be mid December.. i generally remove leaves away from the fruit bunch but also not to the point where the fruit is totally exposed to the sun.. I find that correct pruning can minimise this labour intensive wrk.. p.s I enjot ure blogs! Elke
Hi Danie,
Thank you for this information. This years crop certainly had an over-abundance of leaves (the crop was hearty as well), but perhaps their flavor and sweetness would have been more had I removed some of those excessive leaves.
Thanks for the heads up.
Debbie
Debbie, leaf pulling will for sure improve the quality of your grapes.
Danie
Hello Danie,
Thank you very much for the information. I was really not aware of this practice. However, here it is winter and leaves are shredining. So I will practise this in May and June. Is that alright?
Regards,
Mohammed
Hi Mohammed,
As said in the article, do leaf pulling just after fruit set.
Danie
Hi Danie,
Allow me to thank you for making this blog. It helps us in making our vines healthy all the time. It’s rainy season now here in Philippines, and downy mildew fungus is my big problem. I’ll try leaf pulling as soon as possible.Thank you 🙂
Hi Roy,
You’re welcome and I am glad you find the blog helpful.
An excellent article.Presumably in a hot dry climate we are looking for some protection in the fruit zone but still with good leaf and fruit separation & exposure? How does this change the leaf pulling rules in regard to the first 3 basal leaves?
I would appreciate your comments.
Regards
Chris Walker
Hi Chris.
Where I live, it gets really hot in summer (temps like 37*C or 98*F in summer is not unusual for us ). When you look at a grape vine, you will notice that most of the fruit develops from bud 3 onwards. So removing the basilar leaves will not really open up the canopy too much.
Off course you don’t want to open up the canopy above the grapes, so the grapes will hang in direct sunlight all day long.
Hi Danie,
Thank you for all info on grape growing.
We live in England UK so grape growing for us is possibly different. We have a grape vine called VINE (VITIS) LAKEMONT do you have any information on this grape for the garden. It is in its second season have lots of bunches of small grapes. The skins are very tough but the fruit is very nice it is grown in the greenhouse. Can you help.
Many thanks,
Shirley.
Hi Shirley,
No matter where you live, the planting, training, canopy management and pruning stays the same.
I’ve never seen Lakemont grapes myself, as it is not produced here in South Africa, but from what I read, it is a white seedless variety with a very nice flavour. It seems the variety is somewhat susceptible to bunch rot and powdery mildew (like most vitis vinifera), so keep that in mind.
It is pruned with canes, but can also be cultivated on cordons with spurs (short bearers). The variety is mildy susceptible to frost damage as well.
Hope this will help 🙂
Danie
Hi Danie, Sure I am going to keep this on my file. Thanks for reminding. Anyway,we are still coming into a winter season. Comes spring I will update you with question, if you won’t mind.
Hi Grace
Yes, I often find that people totally forget about leaf pulling. It really is important!
Take care
Danie
thank you
You’re welcome khaled
How do I start to bringing back a vineyard that has not been tended in years……i live in eastern canada, we are now fall winter, frost soon.
Sylvie,
There is nothing you can do now. Wait until just before spring and hard prune the vine so you can develop a new structure or cordon (arms) for your vine.
It’s sometimes better to prune back to the stem of the vine and start all over again – off course this depends on what state the vine is in