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Archive for April 2007

Grape Growing Questions

Hello grape lovers!

I hope you are having a nice Easter!

I’ve received this email from Mary Holland, one of the owner’s of the Complete Grape Growers Guide. I will answer her quistens in red and please feel free to leave a comment or ask questions yourself.

BTW, thanks Mary for a very interesting email!

———–start of email—-
Hi Danie,

Short answer to your question on why I bought your book is because I am interested in starting either a wine grape nursery for northern US varieties, and/or winery, to transition my husband and me into retirement. Your book seemed to be a quick way to get answers to many questions I had. ………….

Here is a list of questions I’ve accumulated so far reading your book.

1. What do you do for weed control on your vinyard?

Mary, because my farm is 25 hectares (planted), doing mechanical weed control is out of the question. I would take far to long and labour is too expensive. I use Roundup as it has no effect on the vine when sprayed on the old wood (the stems of the vines). I do weed control 3 times a year – before sprouting, mid-season (just before berry enlargement) and once again before harvest (if needed).

On the young vines a use growing plastic tubes that I pull up just before spraying the vines with Roundup. This will prevent the Roundup from getting in contact with the leaves on the training shoots. After I sprayed the Roundup, I will let it dry off and will pull the plastic tubes down again. We farmers call these tube “grape condoms” – lol :-)

Here is a picture of the condoms in use:


Just remember to pull down the condoms when the Roundup dried off.

2. How do you ever produce enough compost for 84 acres of vinyard?

The soil on my farm is in such great condition because of years and years of looking after it, adding organic material and manure, I hardly use compost. When I plant new vines, and whenever I feel that I need compost, I buy it from a guy who makes compost – he specialize in it.

3. What are your trellis dimensions on the vertical pole, the diagonal poles, and what’s the height of the peak where the poles meet in a gable? Are they tall enough to get a tractor under the canopies? If not, how do you handle harvest equipment?

Here is a more detailed picture of the slanted trellis system I use

4. How do you attach the poles on your trellises to each other?

See picture

5. Looks like you use wood for your trellises – if I can see the photos correctly. Do you treat these and if so how? If not, how long do they last?

Yes it is streated wooden pools, and I buy it that way. One thing I can tell you though; it is treated with tar and it last about 15 years. Whenever a pole brakes, I replace it with a new one. This is an ongoing process and I normally do trellis maintenance on all my vineyards in winter.

6. How far apart are the trellis sections (or another way, how many grapes are planted between runs of trellis supports)?

8 meteres

7. It appears you run a drip irrigation system. Do you inject fertlizer in your irrigation H20 or do you sprinkle dry on and then simply water over it?

As said in the book, I use 32litere/hour micro jets to water the vines and yes I have started to use drip irrigation as well but not open hydrophonics. This is a very specialised field and I do not recommend it for novices. I do sometimes add fertiliser through the water, but only when I see symptoms of shortages.

8. When you are working on your grapes aren’t you working with your arms over your head?

Yes. Hard work, but the best way to train table grapes – period! :-)

9. Do you harvest by hand or mechanically? If the latter, what type of equip do you use or recommend?

Table grapes cannot be harvested mechanically because the berries may not be damaged. My people pick the grapes by hand and put it in a small crate we call a “luc”. It is then removed from the vineyard to the packshed where we pack the grapes in cartons, to export.

10. Ring barking – couldn’t quite see the pic – are you simply making a cut into the bark and cambium, or are you actually removing a strip of bark and cambium? Is it partway around the stem or all the way around? If a strip of bark is removed, how wide?

No, you must remove the old, loos bark before you make the cut. It is a about 1.5 mm cut. Here is the picture again, I hope you can see it more clearly this time. Remember Mary, ring-barking shortens the life of the grape vine. This is not recommended for the home grape grower at all!.

11. I noticed on market prices that price per ton is as much as 10 times different than other prices. The green ton prices are in the 100′s of dollars per ton; the other price is in the thousands. What does this mean, why are they so different?

The price is normally set by the variety and it will differ allot. I’m not sure how they display your prices where you live, but here is ZA, you will be paid more for a good wine variety. I hope this answer this question

Please feel free to post these q’s and a’s. I’d like to see others as well.

—————–end of email ————————–

I do agree. Grape Viner’s I would love to answer all your questions, post them in here and I will try my best to get to every single question.

Thanks again Mary, for the email. As said in a previous email, I am working on a grape growing forum, but this will take some time to get up and running. Will keep you posted.

Have a great day
Danie
“The Grape Guy”
www.my-grape-vine.com

Author of the Complete Grape Growers Guide.

Grape vine sex!

Hello grape growers.

Today we will be looking at the grape vine sex – and NO, this is not what most of you thought it would be!

Grape vines, like many other fruit types, are self-pollinated where the female and male parts needed for pollination are present on the same plant. If you can recall your biology lessons from school, you will remember that there are certain things that need to be present for a flower to be a perfect flower.

Female part (pistillate):

This is the central part of the flower and consist of basically 3 things

  • The stigma – the soft tissue at the end of the pistillate, where pollen is accumulated
  • The style – a tube where through the pollen will move to reach the ovary
  • The ovary – the place where the fertilisation takes place

When you look at the a grape flower, you will notice the pollen-carriers (stamina), these are the male parts of the flower.

Male part (stamen):

This is the outer part of the flower, just underneath the petal and consist of basically 2 things

  • The anther – the place where pollen is produced
  • The filament – a long stem that supports the anther at it’s tip

For your grape vine to pollinate, all of these parts must be present in a grape flower. Certain wild grape varieties, do not have male or female parts on their flowers and is called dioecian plants. Cross pollination needs to take place for these grape vines to bear fruit. Most of the commercial grape varieties used these day are self-pollinated and do not need cross-pollination in order to bear fruit.

During pollination, the pollen from the anther of the male part of the flower, falls on the stigma of the female part, and grows down the style until it reaches the ovary, where it will penetrate the wall of the ovary so fertilisation can take place.

Dramatic climate conditions (wind, rain, and extreme cold and extreme heat) can have a negative influence on how well pollination will take place. Mild, sunny weather is ideal.

During poor pollination weather, you will notice that grape clusters will be straggly and very loose, with not many berries on the clusters and the opposite happens with too good pollination weather – the grape clusters is too compact, deforming and damaging nearby berries. This is often the starting point for secondary infection (botrytis or grey rot).

There isn’t much you can do about to straggling grape clusters, but in the case of compact bunches, you can thin out the bunches by removing berries by hand or blunt scissors. DO NOT work with scissors in a bunch after the berries softened – you will damage the surrounding berries and this will be were infection can start. Try to thin out the bunches when berries are still green (the size of small peas)

Have a look at this pictures to see what a male, female and perfect flower looks like.

male flower

female flower

perfect flower

Have a grape day!

Danie

“The Grape Guy”

PS: For more proven grape growing techniques, get your copy of the Complete Grape Growers Guide today!