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Archive for July 2007

Training a young grape vine: remove lateral shoots

Hello grape growers!

Do you know why and how you should remove lateral shoots on a young vine?
No? Okay, then this post will help you allot.
Why do you need to remove lateral shoots?
When you look at the picture below, you will notice the vine looks like a shrub with one shoot that is noticeably stronger than the rest. This is the shoot you will want to train to reach the trellis wire. Now, in order to grow this shoot (training shoot) as fast as possible, you will have to somehow channel all available energy to that shoot.
To do just that, you will have to remove all other growing points that compete for nutrients on the grape vine. In the picture below, you will see how I have removed all lateral shoots from this vine and left only the strongest, best developed shoot.
If you do this the correct way, your vine will soon look something like the following picture.
This is an ongoing process during the first year of training your grape vine and should be done weekly.
Have a grape (great) day my friends!
Danie

Powdery Mildew On Grapes

I have received numerous question about grapes drying out before they are ready for harvest or that pea-size berries crack open. So, I have decided to write an article about Powdery Mildew and also include some of the pictures send by them – enjoy!

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Wondering what the white powder-like mildew on grapes is? It is called oidium and it is caused by a fungus called Uncinula necator. This fungus only attacks grape plants and a few of their related species. It is safe to say that it is a widespread fungal disease that can cause total crop loss and or reduced fruit quality, wine quality and vine growth. Oidium’s severity will vary from season to season but it does require treatment each and every season.
The powdery mildew can be seen on all parts of the grape and vine. The foliage, fruit, flower parts and the canes. The first place that you are going to see it is usually on the undersides of the basal leaves. At first, it appears as a whitish or greenish white powdery patch. You may notice mottling or a distortion on the severely infected leaves. Curling and withering may also be noted.

The lateral shoots are incredibly susceptible to the fungus. The blossoms if infected may not turn to fruit. The berry is most susceptible to being infected in the first three to four weeks after bloom. The rest, though, the shoots, petioles and other parts are susceptible throughout the season.

If the infection takes place early, it can reduce the size of the berry and decrease the sugar content as well. You will also notice that the infected berries will have what appears to be a netlike pattern on them. They may crack open and dry up or just never ripen. On the canes, you can see old infections because they will show up as brown areas. As the fungus grows on the grapes and vines and begins to produce spores you will see that the tissue that is infected with have an ash grey powdery look.

Although a bit out of focus, you can clearly see

the brown areas on the shoots and stems of the grapes

The organic grower is going to take into consideration things such as: the location of the vineyard, design of vineyard, row orientation, choice of variety of grape (due to susceptibility factors), canopy structure, irrigation, water and nutrition and shoot removal done early in the season.

There are chemical treatments that can be used as well to help treat and get rid of the powdery mildew. The application of fungicides should start with early shoot growth and continue until bloom. It is important to establish good control early so that the disease is prevented from becoming the powdery mildew epidemic of the summer. Fungicides that are used most often include sulphur, Nova, Lance, Sovran, Flint or Milstop.

Doing a dormant spray of lime sulphur is very effective when it comes to suppressing any over wintering population of the mildew. Applying in the early spring before the buds break will kill the powdery mildew, covering any dormant vines is very important. Then there is the post-harvest spray. These are also beneficial, and the date of your harvest will help you determine the necessity to keep foliage and canes protected.

There are some cultural things that you can do to help control the disease and possibly prevent it. Make sure that you are selecting proper rootstocks, training systems and fertility. Make sure that you are practicing timely sucker control. Cut the canes back close to the top wire of the trellises. Make sure that you are removing leaves so that bunch rot does not occur, this allows the fungicides to better cover the clusters. You can also choose one of the very few grapes that are not susceptible to this fungus to grow the grapes that are not susceptible such as Auxerrois, Malvoisie, Melon, Pinot Gris and Semillon.

Choose carefully, plan wisely and spray at the appropriate times to make sure that the powdery mildew does not attack and destroy your crop.

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What is a spur?

How to prune a grape vine spur

I often get the question: “Danie, how do I prune a spur?”

Without knowing how to prune a spur (short bearer) the correct way, you can spoil your potential crop – did you know that? So, I went out into my vineyards and took some really nice pictures that will explain how to prune a spur.

But before I explain how to prune a spur, you need to know that a grape vine ONLY produce grapes on one-year-old shoots that was pruned on two-year-old canes and not on cordons (arms) or in most cases water shoots (a shoot that developed on 3 year and older wood).

In the picture below, you can see spur that was pruned last winter no.1 (while the grape vine was dormant). During the past growing season, two shoots developed from that spur; no. 2 and no. 3. These two shoots were the bearers during this year’s harvest.

Although they are dormant at this stage, they are still alive and needs to be pruned in order to produce more grapes next season. Inside those little buds you seen in the pictures, are already formed grape bunches – off course you cannot see them with the naked eye, but believe me, they are there! That is why I always hammer on allowing enough sunlight into your grape vine – this helps develop those little grape clusters inside the buds.

OK, so if you look at the picture again, you will notice two red lines. This is where you will prune in order to have a new spur.

In the picture below, I have pruned the old spur back and as you can see, a new spur was pruned with two buds that will develop shoots the next growing season. The shoots that will develop from this spur will bear grapes next season.

If you understand what I am explaining to you, it will make sense that spur I pruned in the above picture, will become an old spur (no 1) next year – during dormancy, after next year’s growing season.

I hope that you now have a better understanding of what a spur really is.

For further, and more in depth pruning techniques, as well as cane pruning techniques, I recommend The Complete Grape Growers Guide.

Have a grape (great) day my friends!

Danie

The Grape Guy