grapes Archives

Planting a grape vine

You have prepared your site; you have decided what variety to grow; now it is time to plant your grape vine! Well, unfortunately, this is where many home grape growers terribly fail!

Planting a grape vine is not hard, if fact, it is one of the easiest fruits to get started, but there are a few key things to remember when planting your grape vine.

1. The planting hole

In the early days, before research proofed this method wrong, planting grape vines, by adding fertilizer and all kinds of stuff into the planting hole, was a well-known practice? Research showed, that a grape vine sprouts from energy within the vine itself, and do not actually use any fertilizer until the vine reach about 2 to 3 inch shoot length. By adding fertilizer directly into the planting hole, or directly on the roots of the vines could damage (scourge) the roots.

With knowledge/information you gained from soil samples, you should fertilize and correct all mineral shortages BEFORE you prepare your vineyard site and then plant your grape vine. This will mix all the fertilizer with the soil and will not damage the roots of your grape vine.

Make a large enough hole to accommodate all the roots from the cutting and do not cut or remove any roots – the more roots, the better the chance of successfully planting your grape vine.

2. Preparing the new vine before planting

Before planting your grape vine, you should plunge the complete vine into a bucket of water for at least six hours. Under no circumstances, let the roots of the vine dry out – this is very important! If you are planting a few hundred vines, cover the vines not planted yet with a damp gunny bag or something similar.

3. Watering the vine

Before you plant the grape vine, you should thoroughly water the planting hole and ensure that the water deeply penetrates the sidewall of the planting hole.

Constantly add water to the planting hole while filling the hole with soil, to ensure that no air pockets forms near the roots of the vines. Water your grape vine once a week for at least a month after planting the grape vine.

Following these simple rules when planting a grape vine, will guarantee a much higher success rate.

For the wine lover …..

For any wine enthusiast wine is more than just a liquor, it is a valuable beverage that triggers a certain chemistry and plays a fundamental role not just from the commercial point of view but intellectually, universally and socially speaking. The very history of wine is dating back to times when only the most well educated and wealthy people enjoyed it plentifully.

However, a wine enthusiast found among the poor and the illiterate was not rare either, as the pleasure of this sense stimulant is widely applicable to anyone, regardless of personal and social status. Presently, wine relates to so many areas that it is almost impossible to exhaust it as an object of study.

First and foremost, wine has a chemical composition that makes it the perfect accompaniment for food: fatty dishes would not be the same without the mild acidity and the taste contrast that wine creates. You don’t have to be a passioned wine enthusiast to actually be aware of the way it complements the taste of food.

Furthermore, since meals are often a pretext for social interaction, wine is often the bond or the missing link in faulty communication. It relaxes the mind, eliminates the tension and stimulates creativity. Any wine enthusiast knows that as long as drinking remains rational, the pleasure is maximum.

The taste buds are the ones to sense the pleasant sensations triggered by wine and the combination of sweetness and acidity is the balance on which wine quality actually relies. It is not seldom that a wine enthusiast is happy to discover some fruity flavor in the liquor; usually such flavors contribute to the sweetness of the wine, depending on the general characteristics of the fruit that create them. Rich dimensions can be found in wine owing to the possibility to combine the taste of grapes with that of certain other fruits like pears, strawberries, elderberries and the like.

If for an amateur it is difficult to tell how white and red wine varieties are created, a wine enthusiast will most certainly know the difference. If red wine is made by the fermentation of the entire grapes, the white wine is the fermentation product of grape juice only: there is no fruit meat or skins left to the composition. Such knowledge may seem basic, but there are lots of other details that a wine enthusiast will share with others, since the topic is so wide and comprehensive that it could not be covered easily.

Take care
The Grape Guy

Greenhouse Grape Growing

Have you ever considered growing grapes in a greenhouse?

Growing vitis vinifera grapes for some of you guys in the colder climates is something you can only dream of. Vitis vinifera, as you probably know by now, is susceptible to cold damage when the temperatures drop below 0 *F or -15*C. Now this is really cold, but even at higher temperatures, most vinifera grapes will not do well in your area.

However, there are a few grape growing techniques used by viticulturists that can prevent the grape vines from getting hurt by these extreme temperatures, like covering the vines, late pruning and even in some cases removing the vines from the trellis and burying it!

There is another way, not so well known to people in the USA. The people from Europe and especially the UK use greenhouse gardening quite often in their backyards and successfully grow grapes in cold conditions.

Why grow grapes in a greenhouse?

First of all, let’s take a look at what a greenhouse really is. Greenhouses come in all shapes, sizes and materials. They range from conventional types that have vertical sides and include a traditional span, to those with one side against a wall (a sunny one is best, and the wall provides extra warmth.) A lean-to is ideal for limited space and excellent where a decorative show is required. Mini, low cost greenhouses are good for beginners new to gardening and greenhouse keeping, and also small gardens.

During the Victorian times, greenhouse grape growing was used to produce crops out of season, or to make the grape crops much earlier than the natural ripening season, by heating up the greenhouse. Today, greenhouse fruit and veg growing is done a lot more sophisticated with the introduction of hydroponics, alternate sources of energy like solar heat panels, airflow controllers and even mist control to regulate heat in the greenhouse. Over the years, the art of growing veggies in a different medium than soil, has been fine-tuned to such extend, that it is used commercially to grow out-of-season products.

Now, it is important to know that not ALL grapes are suitable for greenhouse grape growing. Varieties like Thompson, that is known as a unfruitful variety, will probably need some extra source of light in order to grow it in a greenhouse. Too vigorous growing varieties are also not suitable for greenhouse grape growing, because of the extra work that needs to be done to keep the vine’s growth under control.

Many greenhouse owners grow their vines directly in the ground, and will open up the greenhouse during winter to satisfy the grape vine’s cold units for dormancy and then close the greenhouse just before spring. During this time, they heat up the greenhouse and force the grape vines out of dormancy, without the danger of cold damage to the vines. When the danger of cold damage is over, they will open up the greenhouse to let the heat from the sun into the greenhouse and the grapes will normally ripen. One very big advantage of growing grapes in a greenhouse, is that you can close the greenhouse when rain or bad weather is expected and therefore lower the chances of getting botrytis rot (grey rot) and downy mildew.

Growing grapes in pots is not ideal, as the root system of a grape vine is enormous, but there are greenhouse grape growers that prefer to grow their grapes in pot, and successfully do this as well. The reason for growing grapes in pots is the fact that the grape vine can be moved in and out of the greenhouse as they please.

For sure there are some obstacles when growing grapes in a greenhouse. For one, if the airflow, temperature and humidity in the greenhouse is not regulated, then diseases could become a headache. Even pollination will be a problem, as most grapes are pollinated by wind. Insects that penetrate a greenhouse, normally thrives on the plants because of the lack of predators in this controlled atmosphere. In other words, you will have to have a strict disease and insect control plan.

A greenhouse increases the productivity of your garden but making that decisions about the type of greenhouse you want to add to your garden, even if it’s some way off in the future, needs special planning. There is lots of help available out there, but make sure you do your homework before you start growing grapes in a greenhouse.

For a detailed and proven system for greenhouse veg and fruit growing, I do recommend the following website

Glen’s vineyard

Hello grape growers!

I am so excited, I just had to put this on my blog! Here is a blog that shows you a really great looking vineyard!

Glen from Slovenia bought the Complete Grape Growers Guide in February this year. He planted his 403 grape vines in April and trained them with the help of my e-book and just look at the results! Excellent grape vine training.

Notice the development of the grape vines and how he removed the lateral shoots exactly like it should have been done. Almost every single grape vine has grown more or less the same length and they all look very, very healthy! This is what I call a complete vineyard.

Glen, I personally want to congratulate you with a well developed vineyard and this shows you what can be done with a little effort and the right knowledge!

Here is a quote from his email:” Your book seems to be invaluable, I only planted my 403 vines, well, started on the 18th of april (quite Late really) and all have taken, Most of them 98% are between half a meter and a meter high (See pic P6180008) they seem to be growing like wild fire using your first year pruning technics.”

Want to grow grape vines that look like Glen’s vineyard? The Complete Grape Growers Guide is your answer!

Happy Grape Growing my friends


PS: To get your copy of the Complete Grape Growers Guide, click here.

Bud break on grapes

I want to share with you a secret many grape growers overlook – and it is the effect bud break has on your grape vine.

What is bud break?

Bud break is when the buds on spurs and canes you pruned during winter (or early spring), breaks open and reveals the new growing point of the shoot that will develop from the bud. Depending on the variety, bud break starts about 2 – 3 weeks before the first growing point of shoots are visible.

Why is a strong, even bud break important?

During winter or early spring we prune our grape vines to form the structure of the vine. Another, even more important, reason we prune is to reduce the amount of buds on each grape vine for a smaller, higher quality grape crop. There are many theories on how many buds to keep per vine, but as a rule of thumb you can use the following method.

To determine the number of buds to leave, use the “30 plus 10” formula.

For the first pound of canes removed, leave 30 buds. For each additional pound, leave an additional 10 buds. For most the training systems, the maximum number of retained buds on a grapevine should be less than 60. As you can imagine, having buds that don’t sprout will reduce your crop size even more and can result in a too small crop, making it an uneconomical grape harvest.

The evenness of your harvest will be determined by the evenness of bud break. If you are a commercial grape grower, you want all your grapes in one vineyard, to be ready for harvest at the same time. This will reduce the amount of time spend in collecting the crop because you don’t have to visit the vineyard three or four times to pick all the fruit.

A strong bud break will not only increase ensure a decent crop size, but also make pruning next year much easier. Some grape varieties that is cane pruned, like Thompson, Crimson for example, tends to sprout more evenly and stronger at the last buds on the cane. The biggest problem grape growers have, when this happens, is that they will not find enough pruning wood next year, to retain the structure and amount of buds for a decent crop size.

Look at the picture from one of the My-Grape-Vine customers. This is a classical example of a grape vine sprouting strongly on the tips of the canes and the basal and first buds have a poor sprout percentage.

How to improve an even, strong bud break.

First of all, I want to share with you a theory I have. If you don’t have to cane prune – don’t cane prune. The only reason why you should can prune is when you grow a veriaty that is unfruitful – period! When you spur prune, you will have a much higher bud break %.

So, choosing your pruning method carefully – this will ensure a decent, sustainable crop, year after year AND prune the correct way.

There are lots of so called pruning secrets available on the Internet, but my pruning system I teach in the Complete Grape Growers Guide, has proven itself over the past decade to be the best and most effective way to prune.

The second theory I have is: Proper sunlight penetration.

A grape vine that is too compact (condensed) will overshadow the shoots and and buds during the growing season and as we all know by now, a grape vine needs sunlight to “ripen” the buds on the shoots. In other words; having a well ventilated, not too compact grape vine will improve the bud break percentage.

Now you may ask yourself the following question. “I have a variety that needs to be cane pruned, and is not too compact, BUT I still get a poor bud break percentage – what do I do?”

I have another trick up my sleeve – luckily!

And it is called: “Hydrogen cyanamide (Dormex)” – please note, it is not cyanide, but cyanamide

Applying Dormex to the grape vine’s buds, one month before bud break will significantly improve the bud break percentage and will also make bud break more even.

The concentrate of which it is applied is 3-5 liters (101 – 169 fluid ounces) per 100 liter (26.4 gallons) water for table grapes and 2 – 3 liter (67 – 101 fluid ounces) /100l water for wine grapes. Be sure to read the product label before applying Dormex.


Dormex irritates the skin, so wear proper gloves when you apply it.

If you live in an area where late frost is a problem, I would advise you to be careful. Why? Dormex will not only improve bud break, but it will advance bud break as well. Some grape growers claims to have advanced their sprouting date by up to 3 weeks. My personal experience tells me that id advance bud break by +- one week. So be careful not to advance the sprouting date of your grape vine by so much, that the danger of cold damage will become a bigger concern.

I hope you have enjoyed this blog, and I hope you understand now why an even and strong bud break is so important. You grape growing success depends on this!

For more proven theories, tricks and grape growing tips, you can get yourself the Complete Grape Growers Guide and grow your grape vine like a PRO!



The Grape Guy

Grape vine sex!

Hello grape growers.

Today we will be looking at the grape vine sex – and NO, this is not what most of you thought it would be!

Grape vines, like many other fruit types, are self-pollinated where the female and male parts needed for pollination are present on the same plant. If you can recall your biology lessons from school, you will remember that there are certain things that need to be present for a flower to be a perfect flower.

Female part (pistillate):

This is the central part of the flower and consist of basically 3 things

  • The stigma – the soft tissue at the end of the pistillate, where pollen is accumulated
  • The style – a tube where through the pollen will move to reach the ovary
  • The ovary – the place where the fertilisation takes place

When you look at the a grape flower, you will notice the pollen-carriers (stamina), these are the male parts of the flower.

Male part (stamen):

This is the outer part of the flower, just underneath the petal and consist of basically 2 things

  • The anther – the place where pollen is produced
  • The filament – a long stem that supports the anther at it’s tip

For your grape vine to pollinate, all of these parts must be present in a grape flower. Certain wild grape varieties, do not have male or female parts on their flowers and is called dioecian plants. Cross pollination needs to take place for these grape vines to bear fruit. Most of the commercial grape varieties used these day are self-pollinated and do not need cross-pollination in order to bear fruit.

During pollination, the pollen from the anther of the male part of the flower, falls on the stigma of the female part, and grows down the style until it reaches the ovary, where it will penetrate the wall of the ovary so fertilisation can take place.

Dramatic climate conditions (wind, rain, and extreme cold and extreme heat) can have a negative influence on how well pollination will take place. Mild, sunny weather is ideal.

During poor pollination weather, you will notice that grape clusters will be straggly and very loose, with not many berries on the clusters and the opposite happens with too good pollination weather – the grape clusters is too compact, deforming and damaging nearby berries. This is often the starting point for secondary infection (botrytis or grey rot).

There isn’t much you can do about to straggling grape clusters, but in the case of compact bunches, you can thin out the bunches by removing berries by hand or blunt scissors. DO NOT work with scissors in a bunch after the berries softened – you will damage the surrounding berries and this will be were infection can start. Try to thin out the bunches when berries are still green (the size of small peas)

Have a look at this pictures to see what a male, female and perfect flower looks like.

male flower

female flower

perfect flower

Have a grape day!


“The Grape Guy”

PS: For more proven grape growing techniques, get your copy of the Complete Grape Growers Guide today!

In order to know what to expect when attempting your own hydroponic garden is to know what a hydroponic garden is. Once you understand what this type of gardening entails, you will be more aware of what to expect when constructing a garden of this nature.

Hydroponics is the practice of growing plants in water without soil, and with the proper nutrients added. This process became considerable popular in recent years, and has been done experimentally for over a century. In the year 1929, new studies regarding the feasibility of hydroponics for growing commercial crops have taken place as well.

Nowadays, many home gardeners and farmers use this technique. This method enables plants to be grown closer together in a field, which helps increase the yield of crops. Not only that, but also several crops can be grown in the same hydroponic growth tank.

As far as what to expect from the process of using the hydroponic technique, you will experience both the advantages and disadvantages of growing crops in this manner. One major advantage of hydroponics (besides conserving space) is that it virtually eliminates all weed and pest problems. It is another form of pesticide-free gardening, in some cases.

The major disadvantage of hydronponics is that the equipment used to garden using this methods is very expensive. You will also need to be prepared to provide extensive physical support for your plants when grown by this method. However, this growing method for the most part can benefit many gardeners and crop producers in many ways, if they know how to do it correctly. Those who are successful at this type of gardening can expect nothing but a rich harvest.

Another big advantage for small-scale hydronponic gardeners is the opportunity to grow plants year-round. This can be accomplished by the use of indoor lighting. The correct type of lighting that you would need for growing plants indoors using the hydronponic method would be a High Intensity Discharge (H.I.D.) light. These types of lights are designed to give off the correct spectrum of light waves, which are perfect for growing plants indoors-and in water no less.

The basic hydronponic growing system includes a variety of other components as well. For example, hydroponic-grown plants are held upright by wire supports or are rooted in substances such as sand or gravel. Furthermore, the growing environment for hydronponic-grown plants needs to be as sterile as possible for best results.

To get you started on using the hydroponic system you will need to keep in mind a few tips. For example, if you want to plant a spring garden, there are some things you will need to know, such as the effect of germinating your seeds ahead of time.

In order to germinate your growing seeds you can grow them a month early with an indoor grow light, and wait until after the last projected frost date to transplant it. Even if you decide to transplant your indoor plants outdoors, you will enjoy a longer production and/or blooming season.

The nutrient solutions added to plants grown by the hydronponic method require the correct concentration of various nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and other nutrients that most plants need. One recommendation for growing plants indoors is to add liquid seaweed to them, which also supplies necessary ingredients to plants.

Other names for hydronponics are soilless culture, chemiculture, and water gardening. This type of growing has impressed many people during the experimental phase and is becoming more and more of a successful form of gardening. It is one way of producing organic foods on a larger scale as well.

Now that you know a little more about hydroponics and what to expect from attempting to construct a hydroponic garden it may be time for you to try it for yourself. You have plenty of free resources available to you online to help you get started. In addition, you can refer back to this article.

If you ever have any questions about the hydroponic growing process you can contact gardening or farming expert. They will help direct you to all the information and resources that you need to help you along.

To find out more about hydroponics click on the book

Progress with website

Hello dear grape lovers.

Just a short update on the My-Grape-Vine website.

We are nearing a 1000 subscribers now! Amazing isn’t it!

As promised, I am working on making My-Grape-Vine, the ultimate grape growing website. I’ve added a support page, where you can quickly send any grape growing question to My-Grape-Vine.

The next thing I want to add is the Complete Grape Growing Forum – a forum where you can ask other subscribers (and myself off course) grape growing questions, post your stories and also post some pictures of your grape vine. I think this will be a hit among My-Grape-Viner’s, but still needs some fine tuning – will keep you posted.

By the end of this week, I will start a list cleanup process – we are currently experiencing quite a few bouncing emails due to invalid email addresses. There are several reasons for this, but the main reason is people giving fake email addresses of undeliverable email addresses and off course if someones email address have changed.

The whole idea is to clean up the list so only grape growers who really want to receive the second series of grape growing newsletters will be on the list.

As soon as the forum is online, I will send you guys and girls an email, although it will be after the list cleaning process.

Have a grape (great) weekend

“The Grape Guy”

Ring-bark a grape vine

Hello GrapeViners,
I have something really interesting to share with you today. Do you know what ring-barking is?
Look at the picture below:
Research has shown that the direction of sap flow in a grape vine is in the direction of the red arrows. Sap from the roots of the vine, goes upwards through the core and young wood, also known as the xylem. It picks up carbohydrates as it moves through the leaves and green parts of the vine and transport it back to the routes and older parts of the vine, through the phloem (inner bark).

What happens is when you ring-bark, is that the phloem is cut off with a ring-bark knife, so the sap flow downwards is much slower and therefore much more carbohydrates is available to the green parts of the vine.

Now, let me just warn you about ring-barking! This is a very delicate procedure and you must cut only the phloem of the stem and do not penetrate the cambium too deep, otherwise you will damage the grape vine – even kill it.

Before ring-barking can take place, you will have to remove the bark from the stem of the grape vine, exposing the inner-bark or phloem (no. 2 in picture). Take a knife and cut through the phloem around the whole ambit of the vine, until you reach the place where you started. The cut should only be deep enough to penetrate the cambium (1-2 mm) – you will see some sap-flow coming from the wound – DO NOT CUT TO DEEP!

Now you probably ask: “Why on earth do you ring-bark?”

Well my grape growing friend, this one of the methods I use to enlarge berry size on varieties like Thompson, Crimson and La Rochelle. The reason you get larger berries lies in the slower or much less carbohydrate flow downwards – does is make sense? More is available to grape clusters!

Have a look at the berry size of this La Rochelle bunch – that’s an average of 28-30 mm (XXL!!)

Picture taken with my cellphone, so the quality isn’t that good – sorry!

When to ring-bark and when not and some important things to remember:

  • Never ring-bark a young vine – the diameter of the vine should be at least 30 mm
  • Always ring-bark a day or two AFTER you watered the vine – this will ensure that the vine can handle the “shock” of ring-barking
  • Never ring-bark a grape vine that struggles to grow – remember you are actually hurting the vine
  • In the picture where the numbers are, 1 was last years’ ring-bark and no 2 this year’s ring-bark. Always ring-bark BELOW the previous year’s ring-bark.
  • Don’t cut to deep – PLEASE
  • Ring-barking shortens the life of a grape vine, so if you aren’t a commercial grape grower, don’t ring-bark (although trying it for one year won’t kill your vine IF it is done correctly)
  • Ring-bark at +- 10mm berry size, just after fruit-set has finished – don’t ring-bark to early, as this will have no effect on the berry size.

You might be wondering what happens to the ring-bark wound you made on the stem of the vine. Yes, it is a wound, but the grape vine has a unique way of healing itself and it is called callusing. Callusing is when the grape vine replace damaged membranes with new ones and if you have a close look at the picture of the ring-bark I made last year, you will notice the callosity that formed on last year’s ring-bark.

OK dear grape growers, know you have some kind of idea what ring-barking is all about. Just remember that this procedure should be done with extreme caution and it is NOT for the novice grape grower.

Take care and I will talk to you soon!


The Grape Guy


(Wanna know some more great grape growing techniques? Get you copy of the “Complete Grape Growers Guide” Today!

What is Compost? A good description for compost can be decomposed organic material that is produced when bacteria in soil break down garbage and biodegradable trash, making organic fertilizer.

Gardeners and farmers use compost for soil enrichment. The relatively stable humus material that is produced from a composting process in which bacteria in soil mixed with garbage and degradable trash break down the mixture into organic fertilizer.

Why is compost so important in our everyday grape growing and gardening? I once heard these terms and just love them.

Reduce – Reuse – Recycle

Composting reduces the amount of waste each of us sends to the landfill. 30% of the material we send to landfill is organic and could be composted at home. Making your own compost in your backyard will save you hundreds of dollars over a few years. Think about it this way. In the past, organic materials have been dumped in landfills or burned. The more waste there is to remove, the more money has to be spend – simple as that. By making a compost pile, you will reduce the amount of money spend for waste removal by a huge 30%! Did you know that YOU nearly throw away 600 pounds of compostables each and every year!

Unfortunately, we humans don’t like to reuse. We rather buy new ones because it’s much easier. Isn’t that true? Why should I even consider making my own compost? I’d rather buy my fertilizer from the nursery down the street. The world is falling apart because of waste we humans dump on landfills. The air is polluted with dangerous toxins we breath every single day of our lives. Not many of us like to go through our garbage to see what is reusable and what not. The best way to overcome this problem is to have a recycle bin in your kitchen, where you can throw away organic waste to be recycled.

Every single day we take out the garbage, we take out lots and lots of organic material. So what is organic material and can it be recycled into compost? Let’s have a look. Organic materials include yard debris, wood materials, food and food processing by-products, manure and agricultural residues, land clearing debris, used paper and paper bags, leftovers from last nights party (except for the hangover off course J). All of these products can be recycled in compost that you can use to fertilize your grape vine and your garden!

Did you know that compost is more rich in nutrients than peat moss, we so often use?

The benefits of using compost

Let’s have a look at what compost can do for your grape vine and garden.

Applying finished compost will:

  • return nutrients to the soil,
  • hold moisture in gardens and on lawns,
  • contribute to watershed health by controlling run-off and
  • naturally fertilize your soil and
  • improve and provide structure to the soil.

Inside our soil there are literary millions of organisms at work each day. Each teaspoon of garden soil hosts 100 000 000 (100 mil) bacteria and nearly 800 feet of fungal threats? Improving the organic life inside your soil will:

  • Improve soil drainage
  • Suppress soil-borne plant diseases
  • Improve soil tilth and friability

Loosen heavy clay soils

You must always remember that compost isn’t a fertilizer and nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) are mostly in organic forms. Nutrients from compost is slowly released to the grape vine and other plants, therefore it doesn’t leach from the soil as much as normal fertilizers. Compost contains many trace nutrients that are essential for plant growth and for the home grape grower and gardener, this is more than enough for a single year.

Adding compost to your soil

When adding compost to your soil, you must make sure that the compost is well matured. The acquired characteristics of a mature compost or compost pile are:

  • dark brown color
  • it should be a humus like, crumbly and loose texture
  • it must have an earthy smell
  • it should be free of feedstock-readily
  • the size of the mature pile should be 1/3 of the original size

When adding compost, it is best to mix the compost with the top 6 inches of your soil. This will loosen the structure of clayish and compacted soils and will improve the water and nutrient retention of sandy soils.

Making your very own compost isn’t that difficult, but you need to know the basics. Lots of information is available on the Internet, but if you need a hands-on guide to make the worlds best compost I do recommend the following e-book.

Click on the book to get more information

Have a grape (great) day
“The Grape Guy”

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